Little Falls Climbing Area

Overview

Little Falls Climbing Area is a small but popular cragging destination near Utica New york.  The cliff is situated in the Mohank River.  There are toprope routes, some bouldering, sport climbing and trad routes that protect well.  The area is pretty large and walls are easy to get to. climb moss island ny The most popular areas are Moss island and The Dihedrals.  Some bouldering can be found at the base of the climbs and some bouldering north on the island.   This is one of the few spots to climb in central and west central New York so it is a rare gem and located close to city centers in this part of NY.

 

Beta

Topropes are very easy to set up.  Bring Med to smaller sized pro for cracks, etc.  The area is hot in summer but climbable.  The cliff is under 50 feet high but is very long.  expect crowded times on weekends but you can easily find a grade for you.  There are good boulder problems int the V4/V5 range and some easier ones too.  Climbs can be found to 5.13 at this area.

Directions

Little Falls (the town) is off the NY State Thruway about 20 miles east of Utica. Take exit 29A (RTE-169) towards Little Falls/Dolgeville. Go on Route 169 for t a mile until you reach a large bridge and the Mohank river.

 

 

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