Indoor Climbing Training
Indoor Climbing and training to climb better indoors can get old and monotonous after climbing indoors for too long, especially in winter when outdoor climbing is not possible for those die-hard rock climbers. There are a lot of good games tricks and ideas you can implement into your routine to get motivated to hit the gym time after time and for gym climbing to not get old.
You can do this by yourself, with another climbers, or even better a group of random climbers at the gym. Start with a few holds and have someone add a hold they choose onto the mix so whatever hold they choose, while it is their turn to climb, you will have to get to the hold they “add on” and then add one more move for your turn.
This Game is Good for: Helps with diversity and opposite of muscle memory.
Find a broom, stick, cattle prod, whatever, but something to point at holds with. Point out the next move for your partner trying to challenge them. Don’t just make it a game of find the farthest hold they can reach but something challenging like crimps or floors.
This Game is Good for: Helps keep you fast and thinking fast.
Chalk Ball Throw
Instead of pointing a stick make someone throw a chalk ball–preferably an empty or just a regular ball so you don chalk up the floor and piss off the gym owner. Have the ball slowly thrown at a hold and try to get the hold before the ball hits. The will help with speed and strength and make you more powerful if you do this game on a regular basis.
This Game is Good for: Plyometric training to help with speed and strength.
Indoor campus training
Indoor climbing is a perfect place to build power. We all know of routines on campus boards but you can also campus boulder problems indoors. Campusing is a great way to build plyometric strength and increase explosive power.
1. Find a route with big holds and preferably one you’ve done in then past a few times. Practice campusing it and get to where you can lap it a fee times.
2. After you have a route wired try to onsight campus a route. Doing this will build good strength and muscle memory.
3. Next try to downclimb a route by campusing it. You can also mix it and try to double campus it up and down a few times.
4. Use smaller holds after you get comfortable campusing boulder problems or try campusing on slopers. This will get you to become skilled and make climbing on slopers look easy.
Very important: do no campus up or downclimb campus until you have built sufficient strength. It is very easy to tear or damage tear or harm tissue when campusing. Connective tissue takes a long time to heal don’t blow your training just to prove a point. Back off heavy training until you know you are strong.