Endurance Training for Indoor Climbing

Endurance training for Indoor Climbing

Indoor Climbing

It’s essential to build endurance not only for climbing routes but for preventing injury.  Strength and endurance are two different things and should be trained on separate days and separate times of your training schedule.  Below are a few tips to get you started with endurance training.  These are vary basic ideas for novice climbers looking to expand skills and improve endurance.  This short article will get you started with the basics so you can incorporate other ideas and articles for endurance training we will cover as well.  If you are an experienced climber, this article will help refresh some ideas you most likely already utilize in your training “bag of tricks.”  If not, you may want to start using these simple ideas that will help you train indoors.


Basic Endurance Training Skills

1.  Find a climb that is not above your level and train by downclimbng the route or Boulder problem.  Downclimbing gives motor skills and is good in real life situations where you can downclimb to a piece of pro or to a rest.

2.  Do long traverses around the whole gym and you can even link it back and forth  a few times; a great way to warm up too before you climb.

3.  Practice climbing part way up a route then down and back up.  You can also link problems by climbing then downclimbing until failure.  You can even climb the route up and down several times or until complete failure.

4.  Have a friend support you while climbing.  Have a climbing partner watch you do routes and shout out positive reinforcement so that it helps you to continue climbing to failure.  This will help  you to push your limits if someone else is challenging you to do so.


With endurance remember you aren’t strength climbing.  Strength and endurance are different  and should be trained in different days.  It’s better to use problems and routes about two grades below your standard and stuff you can go a long time on.  This is what builds endurance.

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