Overview
Cathedral Ledge climbing area has some of the best climbs in New England and in North Conway. The area offers amazing quality rock in one of the most popular vacation towns in New England. The climbs start at 5.4 and routes as hard as 5.13+ can be found in a location called Cathedral Cave, an area known for steep sport routes. One of the most distinct features of Cathedral is The Prow. A multi-pitch rock prow that dominates the center of the cliff. This feature is visible from North Conway and from over a 20 miles away.
Most of the climbs here and at nearby Whitehorse ledge, a sister cliff known for its slab climbs, are trad lines and are one to 6 pitches. The cliff tops out at a large viewing vista/platform that lets you look out at Mount Washington and the White Mountains and the north Conway valley. You can also watch climbers across on the Camber Wall and over near the Thin Air face. It’s common to have tourists gawk at you as you jump the fence to enter the vista area after a climb. You can also walk down the paved road that winds to the summit of the cliff as a descent–or catch a ride from someone.
Beta
Bring a large assortment of gear to climb here: large small, medium sized cams and nuts help. You can use a small rack for some climbs or a really large rack for some climbs on the Prow or left side of the cliff. It really depends on the climb. There is a mix of 100 -foot splitter cracks in perfect granite, large open-books, slab routes, horizontals, sport routes, pitons, aid and everything in between. Cathedral Ledge climbing is diverse and exciting. Partial-hanging belays or full-hanging belays can be found as well as massive and very spacious belay ledges. Bring a helmet here as this is a very popular and on holidays can be very crowded and difficult to get on climbs. Sometimes the traffic line to get from the cliff into town takes and hour. If you want to escape crowds nearby Humphrey’s Ledge is a good option or places off the Kanckamangus Highway. This area highlights some of the best of the best of New Hampshire climbing.
Weather and Season
There are falcon closures here during the year. Season varies so it’s best to contact the park and see what climbs are off limits. This is a year-round crag but winter offers mostly ice and is bitter cold. Spring summer and fall are recommended seasons for technical rock.
Directions
This area is located just outside of North Conway. It is the large rightmost of the two massive cliffs seen from town. From North Conway head on 302 towards Intervale and make a left onto River Road just before the hospital. Follow signs for Cathedral Ledge. It will be blatantly obvious about 10 minutes from 302.
Videos
Here is a great video of a sampling of North Conway Rock